The Guide to Aromatherapy

Descriptions of Essential and Carrier Oils and some uses

Illustration by Diana Lambourne

Some oils have a new section added.. "Main constituents:-" All oils have many more chemical parts to them than described here.

Something new about "Notes" from Tony Burfield

Ajowan
Trachyspermum ammi (Family, Apiaceae (Umbelliferae))
Source: fruits or seeds or whole aerial plant, India
production method: steam distillation
aroma type: herbaceous spicy
Safety Information: untested oil. Avoid during pregnancy, possible dermal sensitization Irritant.
Allspice Berry
Pimenta officinalis (Family, Myrtaceae)
Its spicy scent often used in potpourris. and used to flavor beverages, sweets and other foods. warming, cheering, sense enhancing. Warning Avoid use in Sun.
AKA Pimento P. dioica.More on Allspice
Source: fruits, Cuba, Mexico and United States
production method: steam distillation
aroma type: spicy
traditional use: aphrodisiac
blends well with: ginger, geranium, lavender, labdanum, ylang ylang, patchouli, orris
Safety Information: use ½ recommended dilution or less; can cause skin irritation
Almond (sweet)
Prunus amygdalus, P. dulcis (Family, Rosaceae)
Obtained from the Nut of the tree and native to Asia and the Mediterranean this oil is a favourite Carrier oil for Essential oil aromatherapy blends. it is used in itself for moisturizing skin.
Ambrete seed
Abelmoscyhus moschatus AKA Hibiscus abelmoschus (Family, Malvaceae)
Perfume Note=Middle
This has a sweet, floral musky, aroma which gets better after a few months of storage, and works well with many other oils. Used in Muscle aches and pains related to fatigue and poor circulation. Can be used as an anti-depressant
Source: seed, France
production method: steam distillation
aromatherapy class: balancing calming
aroma type: spicy
traditional use: emollient aphrodisiac
blends well with: neroli,olibanum, rose, sandalwood, other floral oils
Amyris
Amyris balsamifera, Schimmelia oleifera (Family, Rutaceae)
Perfume Note=Middle/Base
Calming and an aid to stress relief. It has sedative properties and helps meditation. AKA Sandalwood Amyris
Source: wood, West Indies
production method: steam distillation
aromatherapy class: grounding, energizing. toning, balancing
aroma type: woodsy
traditional use: muscle relaxant, emollient, soothing agent, stimulant
blends well with: lavandin, citronella, cedarwood
Angelica Root
Angelica archangelica, A. officinalis, A. glauca (Family, Apiaceae [Umbelleferae])
Perfume Note=Base to middle
production method: steam distillation
Source: Root, France India, Germany, Hungary
blends well with: patchouli, clary sage, citrus oils, frankincense
Safety Information: Avoid during pregnancy Avoid use in the sun
A warm, musky, earthy aroma with excellent staying power. Only small quantities are needed to create an effect in a perfume. Aromatherapy: anchoring, restorative, strengthening, used for depression. Oil can also come from the seed.
Main Constituents:- Phellandrene, pinene, limonene, linalol, borneol.
Aniseed
Illicium verum (Family, Illiciaceae) production method: steam distillation
production method: steam distillation
Source: seed, India, China, Spain
blends well with: Lavender, orange, pine, bay
Safety Information: should be avoided by pregnant women
The seeds of aniseed have long been used as an aid to digestion. The Essential oil has a sweet, fresh aroma and can be used for any cramping, indigestion, or digestive problems, (though not internally), and for spasmodic coughs. AKA Star Anise.
Anise
Pimpinella anisum, Anisum officinalis (Family, Apiaceae [Umbelliferae])
Perfume Note=Middle
Cheering, sense enhancing, mildly euphoric. Added to perfumes for a rich, sweet fragrance. Aids relaxation and emotional balance.
Source: ripe fruit, China
production method: steam distillation
aromatherapy class: energizing, toning
aroma type: anise
traditional use: deodorant
blends well with: amyris, bay, cardamon, caraway, cedarwood, coriander, fennel, galbanum, mandarin
Safety Information: slight dermal toxicity; use recommended dilution or less
Apricot Kernel
Armeniaca vulgaris, Prunis armeniaca (Family, Rosaceae)
This nut oil, from Asia, is another oil used as a carrier. Believed to be good for the skin.
Arjowan
Trachyspermum ammi, T. copticum (Family, Apiaceae)
Good for circulation and muscular problems. Warning Due to slight toxicity use sparingly, especially if you have sensitive skin.
Armoise
Artemisia, vulgaris
Source: entire plant, France
production method: steam distillation
aromatherapy class: balancing, stimulating, energizing, toning
aroma type: aromatic
traditional use: emollient, soothing agent, muscle relaxant
blends well with: patchouli, rosemary, lavandin, sage, clary sage, cedarwood, cedar leaf
Safety Information: should be avoided by pregnant women
Avocado
Persea americana, Persea gratissima (Family, Lauraceae)
This oil is added to carrier oils, up to 20% as an aid to skin moisturizing. Warning May be toxic in large amounts
Babassu
Orbignya barbosiana (Family, Arecaceae)
From the Amazon this Palm tree is used for many purposes. The oil is from the nut and may be used as a carrier oil. This soothing oil has been used for stretch marks.
Balsam Peru
Myroxylon balsamum var. pererae (Family, Fabaceae [Legumunosae])
Perfume Note=Base
Used on chafed skin to soothe. Exotic aroma, anchoring, strengthening and imparts a rich, earthy scent to perfumes..
Basil
Osimum basilicum (Family, Labiatae)
Perfume Note=Top
Invigorates body and spirit: helps refresh the mind allowing concentration, especially when tired. A good nerve tonic after a stressful day. It has a sweet liquorice-like fragrance, Blends well with Lavender, Bergamot, Clary Sage and Geranium. Warning Do not use Basil during pregnancy, can be a skin irritant.
Also East Indian Basil, (O. gratissimum) and Hairy Basil (O. Canum) and lots more.
Source: leaves, Madagascar, France
production method: steam distillation
aromatherapy class: soothing, energizing, toning
aroma type: anise
traditional use: deodorant, soothing agent, insect repellent, muscle relaxant
blends well with: bergamot, black pepper, clary sage, geranium, hyssop, lavender, marjoram, neroli,
Safety Information: use recommended dilution or less
Main Constituents:- Linalol, methyl chavicol, eugenol, limonene, citronella.
Bay Leaf
Pimenta racemosa (Family, Myrtaceae)
Uplifting. A good scalp and hair tonic, and for Respiratory disorders and depression. Can be stimulating to the memory.
AKA West Indian Bay. Laurel AKA Sweet Bay. (Laurus noblis) is also a Bay.
Source: leaves, West Indies
production method: steam distillation
aromatherapy class: stimulating, energizing
aroma type: spicy
traditional use: aphrodisiac
blends well with: coriander, eucalyptus, ginger, juniper berry, lavender, lemon, marjoram, orange, rose, rosemary, thyme, ylang ylang
Safety Information: use ½ recommended dilution or less; can cause skin irritation
Beechnut
Fagus grandifolia, F. sylvatica (Family, Fagaceae)
A soothing oil from the nut is used as a carrier.
Ben
Moringa oleifera, M. pterygosperma (Family, Moringaceae)
From the seeds this oil is used in skin care.
Benzoin tincture
Styax benzoin, S. tonkinensis (Family, Styacaceae)
Perfume Note=Base
Soothes, stimulates, comforts and warms. Add to carrier oil/cream for protecting skin against chapping or cracking.
AKA Friars Balsam. Other Oils; Balsam of Tolu (Myroxylon balsamum), Balsam of Peru (M. balsamum var, Pereirae), Styrax (Liquidamber orientalis).
Bergamot
Citrus bergamia (Family, Rutaceae)
Perfume Note=Top
Relaxes and refreshes and is good for confidence building. Uplifts the spirit and emotions with its delicious fresh and invigorating citrus fragrance. Useful for caring for oily and blemished skin. Lovely light citrus aroma. Use in vaporiser to disperse unpleasant odours. It is familiar to many as the flavouring in Earl Grey Tea. Warning Do not apply to the skin before going out into the sun - It can increase the susceptibility of the skin to severe burning.
A bergapten free Bergamot is available which reduces the susceptability to photosensitising.
Source: fruit peel, Italy, Ivory Coast
production method: expression
aromatherapy class: calming, balancing
aroma type: citrus
skin type: oily, blemished, normal to combination
traditional use: antiseptic, deodorant, perfume, soothing agent, skin conditioner
blends well with: chamomile, coriander, cypress, geranium, juniper, lavender, lemon, neroli, ylang ylang
Safety Information: photo toxic
Main Constituents:- Linalyl, acetate, linalol, sequiterpenes, terpenes, furocoumarins.
Birch, Sweet.
Betula lenta, B. capinefolia (Family, Betulaceae)
This has a sweet, bracing aroma. It is said to be effective on arthritic and muscular pain and can be a stimulant to the circulation, but is rarely used in Aromatherapy. Warning Is slightly toxic and smells like Sweets. Keep secure.
Birch, White.
Betula alba (Family, Betulaceae)
Can help to clear the skin and help with psoriasis and ezcema. Believed to assist in removing toxins and boosting the circulation.
Source: wood and bark, France
production method: steam distillation
aroma type: woodsy
traditional use: soothing agent, muscle relaxant
blends well with: patchouli, vetiver, copaila
Safety Information: should be avoided by pregnant women
Black Current Seed & Bud
Rives nigrum (Family, Grossulariaceae)
This Asian and European plant provides oil from the seeds and the buds, The seed oil is used as an up to 20% carrier oil addition and bud oil is a very expensive ingredient for perfumery and in foods. The seed oil has been used in PMS problems. The berry is a very high source of Vitamin C.
Black Pepper
Piper nigrum (Family, Piperceae)
Perfume Note=Middle
With a pungent aroma it stimulates and tones. Warming oil during the cold winter season. Ideal for massaging on abdomen and muscles. Use in pre-sports or dance rub to help maintain suppleness. One of the earliest used spices, Interesting effects happen when it is used in perfume blends. It blends well with Rose, Rosemary, Marjoram and Lavender, but should only be used in small amounts. Warning Black Pepper can be a skin irritant, so must be used with care.
Source: fruits, India and Indonesia
production method: steam distillation
aroma type: spicy
traditional use: muscle relaxant, aphrodisiac
blends well with: olibanum, sandalwood, lavender, rosemary, marjoram
Main Constituents:- Thujene, pinene, camphene, sabinene, carene, myrcene, limonene, phellandrene, beta-caryohyllene.
Borage
Borago officinalis (Family, Boraginaceae)
From the seeds this oil is high in GLA (gamma-linoleic acid), reputed to slow down the skins aging processes. It isused as part of a carrier oil, to 25%
Brazil nut
Bertholletia excelsa (Family, Lecythidaceae)
Another nut carrier oil from the Amazon. As it is liable to become rancid quickly this oil needs special attention to storage in a dark cool place.
Cabreuva
Myrocarpus fastigiatus (Family, Fabaceae)
The oil of this South American tree has warming and calming characteristics with claimed aphrodisiac qualities. Believed to be a good oil for clearing the mind and increasing alertness.
Cade
Juniperus oxycedrus (Family, Cupressaceae) Source: wood, France
production method: steam distillation
Used by vets for parasitic skin problems, for lice etc. Also used in perfumery for men and as a food flavouring for a smoky taste.
Cajaput
Melaleuca cajaputi (Family, Myrtaceae)
Perfume Note=Top
Improves mood, increases resistance to infections. A good 'unwinding' oil. Can be used in a Steam inhalation to help clear the nasal passages, also helpful when treating oily skin and spots. Warning Cajaput is a stimulant and an irritant and must be used with care.
Source: leaves and stems, Indonesia
production method: steam distillation
aromatherapy class: soothing, stimulating, energizing
aroma type: camphoraceous
skin type: blemished
traditional use: antiseptic, deodorant, insect repellent
blends well with: bergamot, birch, cardamon, clove, geranium, lavender, myrtle, nutmeg, rose, thyme
Main Constituents:- Cineol, terpoineol, pinene, eucalyptol, nerolidol.
Calendula
Calendula officinalis (Family, Asteraceae)
Good for skin infections, wounds, rashes, bites and inflammations. Also used for other inflammations, e.g. hemorrhoids and rheumatism. (See also Marigold.)
Calamint (catnip)
Calamintha clinopodium, C. grandiflora, C. officialis, Nepeta cataria, Saurreja calamintha (Family, Lamiaceae)
Turn your feline friend into a nutter.. :-) Cats do become out of it in the presence of Catmint. Humans also have their moods uplifted and it is supposed to improve mental clarity and alertness. Aids in pain reduction.
Calamus (Sweet Flag)
Acorus calamus, Calamus aromaticus (Family, Araceae)
An ancient herb that has been used for over 4000 years.
WarningThe Calamus that grows in India contains a high component of asarone, which is potentially toxic and carcinogenic. The plants from North America and Russia have been grown to not contain the asarone.
Calophyllum
Calophyllum inophullum (Family, Guttiferae)
This Asian nut yields a high percentage of its weight as an oil. Sometimes used as a carrier oil though it is quite thick in consistency.
Camphor White
Cinnamomum camphora (Family, Lauraceae)
Can be used to care for oily or spotty skin and also as an insect repellent. Also used in detergents, soaps, disinfectants, deodorants, room sprays etc.
Source: wood, Japan, China
production method: steam distillation
aromatherapy class: balancing, stimulating, toning, cooling
aroma type: camphoraceous
traditional use: deodorant, soothing agent, skin conditioner, aphrodisiac, muscle relaxant
blends well with: olibanum, ylang ylang, orange, mandarin
Safety Information: Camphor should be used sparingly and completely avoided by those suffering from epilepsy, and should be avoided by pregnant women
Canola (rapeseed)
Brassica napus (Family, Brassicaceae)
From the seeds of the plant this oil is used in cooking and as a carrier. The original species contained up to 40% erucic acid which was harmful to the Thyroid, Kidneys and other internal organs. The modern genetically altered species only contains about 1% of the Toxic acid.
Cananga
Cananga odorata (Family, Annonaceae)
The oil from the flowers of this tree is calming and a mood uplifting euphoric. Used by some to relax the muscles. This has anti-depressant qualities.
Source: flowers, Java
production method: steam distillation
aromatherapy class: balancing
aroma type: floral
traditional use: deodorant, skin conditioner
blends well with: bergamot, lavender, lemon, neroli, palmarosa, sandalwood, vetiver, ylang ylang
Caraway
Carum carvi, Apium carvi (Family, Apiaceae [Umbelliferae])
An oil sometimes included in "Love Potions". Can help circulation and intestinal problems. Good for the skin and decreases bruising.
Source: seeds, Holland
production method: steam distillation
aromatherapy class: stimulating
aroma type: minty
traditional use: muscle relaxant
blends well with: galbanum, eucalyptus, rosemary
Safety Information: slight dermal toxicity
Cardamom Seed
Elettaria cardomum (Family, Zingiberaceae)
Perfume Note=Top
The sweet, spicy, warming fragrance of cardamom has been enjoyed since the days of the ancient Egyptians, who used it as a perfume and incense. It can be used as an aid to digestion and makes an excellent bath oil as a tonic which refreshes and invigorates. Also use a lot, sparingly, in cooking and also perfumes.
Source: seeds, Central America
production method: steam distillation & CO²
aromatherapy class: stimulating, toning
aroma type: spicy
traditional use: muscle relaxant, skin conditioner, soothing agent
blends well with: coriander, olibanum, galbanum, geranium, juniper berry, lemon, myrtle
Main Constituents:- terpinyl acetate, cineol, liminene, sabinene, linalol, linalyl acetate, pinene, zingiberene.
Carnation (Clove Pink)
Dianthus caryophyllus (Family, Caryophyllaceae)
The flowers of this plant are at their most aromatic in early evening. A nice aroma to have around when you are "down". This oil is normally only found as an absolute. Reputedly an aphrodisiac.
Safety Information: Can irratate sensitive skins, use sparingly.
Main Constituents:- Benzyl benzoate, eugenol, phenylethyl alcohol, benzyl salicylate, methyl salicylate.
Carrot seed & root
Daucus carota (Family, Apiaceae [Umbeliferae])
Perfume Note=Middle
From the seed, this essential oil has the same sweet, earthy fragrance of the vegetable. Considered to be particularly beneficial for dry, mature skin-types and will can help to restore elasticity to the skin and could therefore reduce wrinkles. The root oil is used in food colouring, (yellow), and in sun tan lotions.
Source: seeds, India
production method: steam distillation
aromatherapy class: stimulating, toning
aroma type: spicy
traditional use: muscle relaxant, soothing agent, skin conditioner, aphrodisiac
blends well with: bergamot, juniper berry, lavender, lemon, lime, neroli, orange, petitgrain, rosemary
Cashew nut
Anacardium occidentale (Family, Anacardiaceae)
This oil from Latin America and Asia is added as 20% to carriers
Cascarilla Bark
Croton eleuteria (Family, Euphorbiaceae)
This is a stress reducing oil, and is good for meditation. Widely used in fragrances, soaps, detergents and in foods and drinks. Also used in cigarettes. Warning Do not use any oil from the seeds as this oil is a strong purgatory.
Cassia
Cinnamomum cassia, C. aromaticum, Laurus cassia (Family, Lauraceae))
Perfume Note=Middle(only room scent)
Distinctly spicy like cinnamon bark. Used to flavour all kinds of food and toothpaste, mouthwash and chewing gum. Warning Cassia is very irritating to the skin and can cause an allergic reactions.
Cassie
Acacia farnesiana, Cassia ancienne (Family, Mimosaceae)
This is used in perfumery, for rheumatic symptoms and for chest ailments.
Castor
Ricunus communis (Family, Euphorbiaceae)
Native to India, Castor has been used for centuries. Eating the nuts can be fatal, one to five nuts can kill a child. The oil is extracted at a low temperature to keep the Ricin from being in the oil. Used as an analgesic, clearing blackheads and for dandruff.
Catnip
Nepeta cataria Var citriodora (Family, )
Source: aerial parts, France, United States, Yugoslavia
Many varieties exist.
No formal testing.
Cedar Leaf
Thuja, occidntalis
Source: leaves and stems, United States
production method: steam distillation
aromatherapy class: calming
aroma type: aromatic
traditional use: deodorant, astringent, soothing agent
blends well with: lavender, lavandin, rosemary, armoise
Cedarwood
Juniperus mexicana scheide (Family, Pinaceae)
Perfume Note=Base
With a woody balsamic aroma. It is used in perfumes to add body and a warm note to any blend. And as Cedarwood Virginia therapeutically.
Cedarwood (Atlas)
Cedrus atlantica (Family, Pinaceae)
This highly prized wood has been used throughout history for its strength and aroma. This oil helps to clear the breathing passages and is used in hair and skin care products.
Main constituents:- Atlantone, caryophyllene, cedrol, cadinene.
Cedarwood Virginia
Juniperus virginiana J. communis(Family, Cupressaceae)
Perfume Note=Base
Soothes and harmonises. Recognised as a therapeutic oil from ancient times. An astringent oil useful for protection and caring for oily and blemished skin, and as an inhalant relieves mucoussy coughs and colds. Helps to combat cellulite, use in wardrobe to repel moths. It makes a pleasant warm and woody room fragrance, the Tibetans use it as temple incense. Warning Use Cedarwood during pregnancy only in moderation.
Source: wood, United States
production method: steam distillation
aromatherapy class: balancing, grounding, energizing
aroma type: woodsy
traditional use: antiseptic, skin conditioner, deodorant, insect repellent, soothing agent
blends well with: patchouli, vetiver, sandalwood
Main constituents:- Cedrene, cedrol, cedrenol.
Celery Seed
Alpium graveolens (Family, Apiaceae [Umbelliferae])
A sweet spicy aroma. It may stimulate milk flow, balance hormones, relieve liver and elimination system problems.
Source: seeds, India
production method: steam distillation
aromatherapy class: stimulating, toning
aroma type: spicy
traditional use: blends well with: basil, cajeput, chamomile, grapefruit, guaicwood, lemon, orange, palmarosa, rosemary
Chamomile, German
Matricaria chamomilla or M. recutia (Family, Asteraceae [Compositae])
Perfume Note=Middle
An Absolute. German chamomile AKA blue chamomile or chamomile matricaria. The blue color is from azulene which is formed during the distillation of the oil. The odor is sweet and adds a warm, long-lasting undertone in perfumes. All the Chamomiles are used in massage oils and herbal mixtures.
Source: flowers, Germany
production method: steam distillation
aromatherapy class: soothing, toning
aroma type: fruity
skin type: sensitive, blemished
traditional use: muscle relaxant, soothing agent, skin conditioner, aphrodisiac
blends well with: bergamot, jasmine, labdanum, neroli, clary sage, rose
Main constituents:- Chamazulene, (Produced during steam distillation, not present in the fresh plant), bisabolol oxide, enyndicycloether, farnesene.
Chamomile Roman
Chamaemelum nobile or Anthemis noblis (Family, Asteraceae [Compositae])
Perfume Note=Middle
Illustration by Diana Lambourne
Well known for its strong soothing effect on mind and body. The Roman and German are excellent for protecting dry skin. They have many uses e.g. can be used to treat nerve, headache, insomnia, menstrual disorders and the Roman is a comforting oil during high pollen count.(Unless you have an allergy to the ragweeds). A gentle oil suitable for the young and fragile. One of the few essential oils that can be used on inflamed skin conditions. Blends well with Lavender, bergamot, jasmine, neroli, and clary sage. Read the Aromatherapy books for their varied uses.
Source: flowers, Europe
production method: steam distillation
aromatherapy class: calming
aroma type: fruity
skin type: sensitive
traditional use: muscle relaxant, skin conditioner
blends well with: galbanum, eucalyptus, rosemary
Main constituents:- Esters, pinene, fanesol, nerolidol, chamazulene, pinocarvone, cineol.
Chamomile Moroc (Sauvage)
Anthemis mixta, Ormenis mixta, O. multicaulis (Family, Asteraceae)
Not a true Chamomile, nevertheless it is used as a calming oil, both mentally and for intestinal symptoms.
Source: blossoms, Morocco
production method: steam distillation
aromatherapy class: balancing, soothing, calming, toning
aroma type: aromatic
skin type: sensitive
traditional use: muscle relaxant, skin conditioner
blends well with: cypress, labdanum, lavandin, lavender, vetiver, cedarwood, olibanum
Champaca Flower & Leaf
Michelia alba, M. champaca (Family, Magnoliaceae)
AKA Frangipani, this oil is another one for mental clarity and alertness, it also has euphoric and calming properties.
Cinnamon (Bark & Leaf)
Cinnamomum zeylanicum, C verum, Laurus cimmamomum (Family, Lauraceae)
Perfume Note=middle (only room scent)
Warms and stimulates. A strong antiseptic, it has a cleansing effect. Used as a comforting oil during the cold season, A lovely room fragrance, especially during Xmas.
Source: leaves and stems, Ceylon
production method: steam distillation
aromatherapy class: stimulating, energizing
aroma type: spicy
traditional use: anti-inflammatory agent, aphrodisiac, skin conditioner, deodorant
blends well with: caraway, citrus oils, clove, myrtle, nutmeg, olibanum
Safety Information: can cause skin irritation; moderate dermal toxicity
Main constituents:- (Bark oil), Cinnamaldehyde, eugeno, benzaldehyde, pinene, cineol, phellandrene, furol, cymene, linalol. (Leaf oil) Eugenol, eugenol acetate, cinnamaldehyde, benzyl benzoate, linalol.
Citronella
Cymbopogon nardus, Andropogon nardus (Family, Poaceae [Gramineae])
Perfume Note=Top
Light, fresh and uplifting oil, obtained from the grass, it is a natural deodoriser, and is useful as an insect and cat repellent.
Source: aerial parts, Java
production method: steam distillation
aromatherapy class: soothing
aroma type: citrus
traditional use: insect repellent, skin conditioner
blends well with: bergamot, lemon, orange, lemongrass
Clary Sage
Salvia sclerea (Family, Lamiaceae [Labiatae])
Perfume Note=Top/Middle
Soothes, relaxes and warms. uplifts the spirit. Contains a hormone-like compound similar to oestrogen that regulates hormonal balance. Massage on muscles and on abdomen before and during menstruation. Induces feeling of well-being. Can provoke dramatic and colourful dreams.... helpful with oily hair and skin, dandruff and treating wrinkles. Sensual properties.
Source: flowering tops, Morocco
production method: steam distillation
aromatherapy class: balancing, calming, toning
aroma type: herbaceous
skin type: normal to combination
traditional use: skin conditioner, astringent, soothing agent, aphrodisiac, muscle relaxant
blends well with: cedarwood, labdanum, citrus oils, lavender lavandin Safety Information Do not use during pregnancy. Do not drink alcohol or drive.
Main constituents:- Linalyl acetate, linalol, pionene, myrcene, sclareol, phellandrene.
Clove (Bud, Leaf & Stem)
Syzygium aromaticum, Eugenia caryophyllata, E. aromaticia, E. caryophyllus (Family, Myrtaceae)
Perfume Note=Middle (room scent only)
An antiseptic and stimulating oil useful in mouthwash and gargle. Comforting rubbed onto gums, traditionally used to relieve toothache. Could be an effective mosquito repellent. Warning Clove is a powerful skin irritant and should be used carefully. Do not use during pregnancy.
Source: flowers, Madagascar
production method: steam distillation
aromatherapy class: stimulating, energizing
aroma type: spicy
traditional use: muscle relaxant, soothing agent
blends well with: basil, black pepper, cinnamon, citronella, grapefruit, lemon, nutmeg, orange, peppermint, rosemary, rose
Safety Information: use ½ recommended dilution or less; can cause skin irritation
Main constituents:- (Clove bud) Eugenol, eugenyl acetate, caryophyllene. (Clove Leaf) Eugenol, some eugenyl acetate.
Coffee
Coffea arabica (Family, Rubiaceae)
Yes there is a Coffee EO, and is a stimulant as is the drink. Supposed to be mood uplifting, energising and to improve mental clarity. Warning This is an adrenal gland and nervous system stimulant so should be used with caution.
Copaiba
Copaifera officinalis(Family, Fabaceae)
Both a Resinoid and an EO is obtained from the tree, Good for increasing circulation, stress reduction, clearing out the air passages and as a fixative in perfumery.
Coriander
Coriandum sativum (Family, Apiacea [Umbelliferae])
Perfume Note=Top
A sweet-smelling, spicy essence. It makes a good massage blend to relieve stiffness and muscle ache. In the bath it is refreshing and stimulating. Warning Due to its slight toxicity this oil should be used sparingly.
Source: seeds, France
production method: steam distillation
aromatherapy class: warming, stimulating
aroma type: spicy
traditional use: muscle relaxant, deodorant, soothing agent, aphrodisiac
blends well with: bergamot, black pepper, cinnamon, citronella,
cypress, galbanum, giner, jasmine, lemon, neroli, orange
Main constituents:- Linalol, decyl aldehyde, borneol, geraniol, carvone, anethole.
Cornmint
Mentha arvensis (Family, Lamiaceae)
One of the Mint family, this can be used to assist in clearing the air passages. Some say it is useful in speeding up the metabolism, and for refreshing, reviving, energising, and generally sharpening the senses. Warning Can be irritating to the skin and can overstimulate the nervous system.
Costus
Saussurea costus, S. lappa (Family, Asteraceae)
A calming oil used in flavourings and perfumery.
Cubeb
Cubeba officinalis, Piper cubeba (Family, Piperaceae)
This spicy oil is used to increase circulation, improve digestion, clear out the sinus and breathing passages and relieve aches and pains.
Cumin
Cuminum cyminun, C. odorum (Family, Apiaceae [Umbelliferae])
A sharp, spicy aroma. May be used for those who have mental or physical exhaustion. Could stimulate the metabolism of those who are obese and/or have excessive fluid. Warning May be slightly photosensitising or irritating to some skins.
Cyperus (Cypriol)
Cyperus scariosus (Family, Cyperaceae)
This is the sedge grass used to make papyrus, cloth and fragrances. A tonic for the digestive system and an insect repellent.
Cypress
Cupressus sempervirens (Family, Cupressaceae)
Perfume Note=Middle
With its smoky woody fragrance it refreshes, restores and tones. An astringent oil useful for refreshing and caring for oily and blemished skin, As an anti-perspirant it is good for sweaty feet. Massage on abdomen during menstruation and where there is cellulite. Good menopausal oil. Natural deodorant. Blends well with Lavender and Sandalwood.
Source: leaves and stems, France
production method: steam distillation
aromatherapy class: stimulating
aroma type: coniferous
skin type: oily, blemished
traditional use: insect repellent, antiseptic, astringent, deodorant,
soothing agent, skin conditioner
blends well with: bergmot, clary sage, juniper berry, lavender,
lemon, orange, rosemary, sandalwood
Safety Information: FLAMMABLE
Main constituents:- Pirene, chmphene, sylvestrene, cymene, sabinol.
Dill
Anethum graveolens (Family, Apiaceae [Umbelliferae])
Some say can reduce appetite, and, with fennel and baking soda, is a constituent of "Gripe Water". (Anti-colic water for the non-British reading this.)
Elecampane
Aster officinalis, Hellenium grandiflorum, Inula helenium (Family, Asteraceae)
AKA Inula. Used for mood uplifting and to help breathing for some asthmatics.
Elemi
Canarium commune, C. luzonicum (Family, Bursecracae)
Supposed to help stimulate the immune system, so is a good oil to use in debilitated persons. Can be an expectorant and so help open up the air passages. It has been used to help asthmatics. Good for meditation and during counselling sessions. Aids sleep.
Main constituents:- Phellandrene, dipentene, elemol, elemicin, terpinol, limonene, pinene.
Eucalyptus
Eucalyptus globulus (Family, Myrtaceae)
Perfume Note=Top
Powerful antiseptic, widely used in baths and massage during the cold season. Blend oil in chest rubs and use in a vaporiser to keep air germ free in sick room. Blends well with Lavender and Pine.
There are many more Eucalyptus oils, including; Australian Eucalyptus, (E. australina); Lemon Eucalyptus, (E. citriodora); Dives or Broad-Leaved Peppermint, (E. dives); Peppermint Eucalyptus, (E. piperita); Blue Mallee (E. polybractea); Grey peppermint, (E. radiata); Cully Gum, (E. smithii) and more.
Source: leaves and stems, Spain
production method: steam distillation
aromatherapy class: toning, stimulating
aroma type: camphoraceous
skin type: blemished
traditional use: deodorant, antiseptic, soothing agent, skin conditioner, insect repellent
blends well with: coriander, juniper berry, lavender, lemon, lemongrass, thyme
Main constituents:- Cineol, pinene, limonene, cymene, phellandrene, terpinene, aromadendrene.
Evening Primrose
Centhera biennis
Rich in GLA, vitamins and minerals. Excellent for face and body massage blends, especially to combat dry, devitalised skin and eczema, Used by PMT sufferers, internally in small amounts, to ease the symptoms.
Fennel
Foeniculum vulgare, F. officinale, Anethum foeniculum (Family, Apiaceae [Umbelliferae])
Perfume Note=Top/Middle
Has a sweet aniseed-like aroma which makes it pleasant for skin care. For massage where there is cellulite and for the digestive system, especially the dreaded wind. Good for breast firming massage and to promote milk production, use sparingly. Warning Fennel can be a skin irritant. Do not use it on young children. Do not use if pregnant. Do not use if suffering from epilepsy.
Source: fruits, Italy
production method: steam distillation
aromatherapy class: energizing, toning
aroma type: anise
traditional use: antiseptic, aphrodisiac, soothing agent, muscle relaxant
blends well with: basil, geranium, lavender, lemon, rose, rosemary, sandalwood
Safety Information: slight dermal toxicity; use ½ recommended dilution or less
Main constituents:- Anethol, anisic acid, anisic aldehyde, pinene, camphene, estragol, fenone, phellandrene.
Fir Needle
Abies alba (Family, Pinaceae)
Perfume Note=Middle
A Fresh spicy scent. A few drops will remind you of the fir forests. A festive aroma for a freshly cut Christmas tree. Warning Dilute well. It can be a skin irritant.
Also:- Canadian Balsam, (A. balsamea); Siberian Fir, (A. siberica); Hemlock, (Tsuga canadensis); Pine q.v.; Black Spruce, (Picea mariana); Terebinth, (P. Palustris and others).
Frankincense
Boswellia thurifera or B. carteri (Family, Burseraceae)
Perfume Note=Base
Also known as "Olibanum" B. papyrifera. Soothes, warms and aids meditation. It has been used for centuries, and burnt on alters and in temples. "Creates a 'spiritual' atmosphere". Comforting oil, by slowing down breathing and controlling tension it helps to focus the mind. Excellent for toning and caring for mature/aging skin. (claimed to have rejuvenating qualities [the Egyptians used it in rejuvenation face-masks.])
Elemi (Canarium luzonicum) is related.
Source: resin, India and France
production method: steam distillation
aromatherapy class: stimulating, toning, grounding
aroma type: balsamic
skin type: aging/mature
traditional use: skin conditioner, soothing agent
blends well with: basil, black pepper, galbandum, geranium, grapefruit, lavender, orange, patchouli, sandalwood
Main constituents:- Pinene, dipentene, limonene, thujene, phellandrene, cymene, myrcene, terpinene.
Galangal
Alpina officinarum, Languas officinarum (Family, Zingiberaceae)
A general stimulant with stress reducing properties.
Galbanum
Ferula galbaniflua, F. cummosa, F. rubicaulis (Family, Apiaceae)
Used more in food flavouring but may aid mature skin types and assist in clearing congested breathing.
Source: resin, Middle East and France
production method: steam distillation
aromatherapy class: toning, stimulating
aroma type: green
skin type: blemished
traditional use: skin conditioner, muscle relaxant
blends well with: citronella, elemi, olibanum, jasmine, palmarosa, geranium, ginger, rose, ylang ylang
Main constituents:- CArvone, cadinene, myrcene, cadinol, limonene, pinene.
Gardenia
Gardenia grandifloria (Family, Rubiaceae)
An absolute and EO is obtained from the flowers. A Mood uplifting oil.
Garlic
Allium sativum (Family, Lilliaceae)
(more to come) Safety Information: Should not be used if suffereing from eczema or psorisis. External applical can be highly irritating to the skin. Can cause colic in babies if taken by breastfeeding mothers.
Main constituents:- Allicin, sulphides e.g. allylpropyl disulphide, citral, geraniol, linalol, phellandrene.
Geranium
Pelargonium graveolen (Family, Geraniaceae)
Perfume Note=Middle to Top
Illustration by Diana Lambourne
A balancing oil for the mind and body. A fresh, floral and sweet smelling oil it relaxes, restores and maintains stability of the emotions. An astringent oil excellent for all skin types. Used in skin care products for both its fragrance and cleansing properties. Useful insect repellent. For massage where there is cellulite and treating eczema and psoriasis. Blends well with other floral oils, and, mixed with Lavender and Bergamot produces a delightful room freshener.

Source: leaves and stems, China
production method: steam distillation
aromatherapy class: balancing, soothing
skin type: oily, dry
aroma type: floral
traditional use: skin refresher, astringent
blends well with: cedarwood, citronella, clary sage, grapefruit, jasmine, lavender, lime, neroli, orange, petitgrain, rose, rosemary, sandalwood
Main constituents:- Geraniol, borneol, citronellol, linalol, termineol,limonene, phellandrene, pinene.
Ginger
Zingiber officinalis (Family, Zingiberaceae)
Perfume Note=Top
Fiery and fortifying. Comforting oil and for massaging on the muscles. Good for nausea and sickness. Blend with orange for warming winter baths. Blends especially well with orange and other citrus oils.
Source: roots, China
production method: steam distillation
aromatherapy class: energizing, warming
aroma type: spicy
traditional use: aphrodisiac, astringent
blends well with: cinnamon, coriander, clove, elemi, eucalyptus, olibanum, geranium, lemon, lime, myrtle, orange, rosemary, spearmint
Main constituents:- Gingerin, linalol, camphene, phellandrene, citral, cineol, borneol.
Goldenrod
Solidago canadensis, S. odora (Family, Asteraceae)
Used for bee stings and is a calming and warming oil. Supposed to encourage communication and meditation.
Grapefruit
Citrus paradisi, C. racemosa (Family, Rutaceae)
Perfume Note=Top
Refreshes and uplifts the spirit. Lovely fresh aroma which can help with nervous exhaustion. it relieves congested and oily skin, having a toning effect on both skin and tissues. For this reason it is a good oil to use when treating cellulitis. Warning do not use Grapefruit on the skin in direct sunlight.
Source: fruit, United States
production method: expression
aromatherapy class: energising
aroma type: citrus
skin type: dry, blemished
traditional use: soothing agent, astringent, skin conditioner
blends well with: citrus oils, especially bergamot, orange
Main constituents:- Limonene, paradisiol. neral, geraniol, citronellal.
Guaiac Wood
Bulnesia sarmientoi (Family, Zygophyllaceae)
No aromatherapy uses documented but plenty of herbal uses.
Source:wood Paraguay
production method: steam distillation
aroma type: green, woody
Helichrysum (Italian Everlasting or Immortelle)
Helichrysum angustifolium, H. italicum (Family Asteraceae)
There are approximately 500 species of helichrysum. This species is used as an anti-depressant. Used to freshen the air, mind and body this is a very useful oil. Helps to clear the mind, chest and sinus and relieves aches, pains and menstrual discomfort. Another one for the "Must have" box. Source:flower, France, Spain Yugoslavia
production method: steam distillation
Helichrysum
Helichrysum stoechas (Family Asteraceae)
Source:flower, France, Spain Yugoslavia
production method: steam distillation
Henna (Hina)
Lawsonia inermis (Family Lythaveae)
Source:flower, India
production method: steam distillation and absolute
Hops
Jumulus lupulus (Family, Moraceae)
Calming and an aid to sleep, the herb hops is used in sleep pillows. Also used as a mild pain reliever. Warning This oils is mildly toxic so must be used sparingly.
Main constituents:- Humuline, myrcene, caryophylene, farnesene.
Hyssop
Hyssopus officinalis, H. officinalis Var. decumbens (Family, Lamiaceae [Labiatae])
Sacred to the Greeks and the Hebrews where Hyssop brooms were used to clean out sacred places. Warm and Vibrant, can promote alertness and clarity of thought. When used in a fragrancer can protect rooms from infection. Used to treat colds and flu, helps heal bruised skin.
Source: roots, India, Egypt and Europe
production method: steam distillation
aromatherapy class: warming, stimulating, balancing
aroma type: herbaceous
skin type: blemished
traditional use: soothing agent, skin conditioner
blends well with: celery, fennel, lavender, orange, rosemary, tangerine
Safety Information: Powerful oil not to be used when pregnant, suffering from epilepsy, or high blood pressure.
Jasmine Absolute
Jasminum officinale or J. Grandiflorum (Family, Oleaceae)
Perfume Note=Base
Illustration by Diana Lambourne
Emotionally warming. Relaxes, soothes, uplifts and helps self confidence. Good for stress and general anxiety. Perfect skincare oil, excellent for hot, dry skin. Sensual properties and reputedly an Aphrodisiac!. Only needs to be used in very small quantities. Exquisite perfume. A vast quantity of blossoms, which must be gathered at night when their scent is at their highest, are required to produce only a few drops of oil, so it is a very expensive oil.
Source: flowers, Egypt
production method: solvent, extraction
aromatherapy class: uplifting, balancing
aroma type: floral
skin type: dry, normal to combination
traditional use: antiseptic, aphrodisiac, emollient, soothing agent
blends well with: all floral absolutes
Main constituents:- Jasmone, benzyl acetate, benzyl alcohol, indol, linalol, linalyl acetate, phenylacetic acid, methyl jasmonate.
Juniper
Juniperus communis (Family, Cupressaceae)
Perfume Note=Middle
Illustration by Diana Lambourne
Tones and stimulates. an antiseptic and astringent oil for bath and massage where there is cellulite. Restores psychic purity. Fresh woody aroma. Has a cleansing effect on the body, used in many masculine perfumes, after shaves and colognes, and has a calming effect on the emotions. Reputed to strengthen the immune system. {And don't forget the Gin!} Warning Juniper should not be used when pregnant.
Source: flowers, Yugoslavia
production method: steam distillation
aromatherapy class: energizing
aroma type: coniferous
skin type: blemished
traditional use: astringent, skin detoxifier, deodorant, soothing agent
blends well with: elemi, cypress, clary sage, lavandin
Safety Information: FLAMMABLE
Main constituents:- Pinene, myrcene, borneol, camphene, thugene, termenic alcohol.
Khella
Ammi visnaga (Family, Umbelliferae)
The oil is rare on the commercial market, if at all.
Source: seeds, Egypt and Morocco
production method: steam distillation
Safety Information: No formal testing. Avoid in pregnancy, slight photosensitivity.
Labdanum (Cistus or Rock Rose)
Cistus ladanifer (Family, Cisgaceae)
An excellent fixative in perfumery, used in some expensive brands. Helpful in meditation and counseling sessions, has calming, stress reducing and mood uplifting properties.
Source: resin, Morocco and Spain
production method: steam distillation
aromatherapy class: stimulating, toning, soothing,
aroma type: balsamic
traditional use: aroma fixative, skin conditioner
blends well with: clary sage, juniper berry, bergamot, cypress, vetiver, sandalwood, patchouli, olibanum, lavender, labdanum
Labrador tea
Ledum groenlandicum (Family Ericaceae)
Very much a relaxing oil. Can be used as an expectorant and during meditation.
Source:aerial parts, Canada
production method: steam distillation
Warning This is not to be used before driving or using equipment due to its soporific properties.
Lantana
Lantana camara(Family, Verbenaceae)
This oil is rare on the commercial market.
Source: Aerial parts, Madagascar
production method: steam distillation
Safety Information: No traditional EO uses, but due to large Ketone % avoid in Pregnancy.
Lavender
Lavendula augustifolia, L. officinalis, L. vera (Family, Lamiaceae [Labiatae])
Perfume Note=Middle to Top
Illustration by Diana Lambourne
Undoubtedly the most versatile and useful oil. NO home should be without it. Relaxes, Soothes, restores and balances your body and mind. Calms or stimulates according to your bodies needs. Excellent for refreshing tired muscles, feet and head. Add a drop to the pillow/sheet before peaceful sleep. Treats burns and reduces scaring. Can be used neat in small amounts on burns, but care still needs to be taken. Blends happily with many other oils. Lavender has so many uses that it is recommended that further reference be made to the many books on Aromatherapy. Lavender is a Must!
Source: flowering tops, France
production method: solvent extract for the absolute or steam distillation for the essential oil
aromatherapy class: calming, balancing, soothing
aroma type: herbaceous (The absolute is wonderful, very 'lavender' but without the camphorous undertone.)
skin type: sensitive, all skin types
traditional use: muscle relaxant, soothing agent, skin conditioner, astringent
blends well with: bergamot, clove, rosemary, eucalyptus, patchouli, clary sage, rose, jasmine
Main constituents:- Linalol, linalyl acetate, lavandulol, lavandulyl acetate, terpineol, limonene, caryophyllene.
Lavandin
Lavandula hybrida, L. fragrans, L. hortensis (Family, Lamiaceae [Labiatae])
Perfume Note=Middle to Top
Lavandin is a hybrid plant, a cross between true lavender and spike lavender. The oil has a camphoraceous, herbaceous, floral aroma. Used in many types of perfumes, soaps and detergents. Blends well with many other oils including cypress, geranium, citronella, clove, cinnamon leaf, pine, thyme and patchouli. Refreshing, purifying, gently clarifying.
Source: leaves, France
production method: steam distillation
aromatherapy class: stimulating, energizing
aroma type: herbaceous
traditional use: soothing agent, muscle relaxant, skin conditioner, astringent
blends well with: clove, bay leaf, cinnamon, citronella, cypress, geranium, patchouli
Main constituents:- Borneol, camphor, cineol, geraniol, linalol, linalyl acetate.
Lavender Spike
Lavandula latifolia
Source: leaves and stems, Spain
production method: steam distillation
aromatherapy class: stimulating, energizing
aroma type: herbaceous
skin type: sensitve, all skin types
traditional use: muscle relaxant, soothing agent, skin conditioner, astringent
blends well with: lavender, lavandin, rosemary, eucalyptus, petitgrain, neroli
Main constituents:- Cineol, camphor, linalol, linalyl acetate.
Lovage Root
Levisticum officinalis(Family, Umbelliferae)
This oil is rare on the commercial market. Source: root Europe
production method: steam distillation CO²
aroma type: Earthy
Safety Information: Phototoxic. Possible irritation, possible sensitization

The Guide to Aromatherapy Part Two

Return to The Introduction
Return to Contents

The Guide to Aromatherapy

Descriptions of Essential and Carrier Oils and some uses

Some oils have a new section added.. "Main constituents:-" All oils have many more chemical parts to them than described here.

Ajowan

Allspice Berry

Almond (sweet)

Ambrete seed

Amyris

Angelica Root

Aniseed

Anise

Apricot Kernel

Arjowan

Armoise

Avocado

Babassu

Balsam Peru

Basil

Bay Leaf

Beechnut

Ben

Benzoin tincture

Bergamot

Birch, Sweet.

Birch, White.

Black Current Seed & Bud

Black Pepper

Borage

Brazil nut

Cabreuva

Cade

Cajaput

Calendula

Calamint (catnip)

Calamus (Sweet Flag)

Calophyllum

Camphor White

Canola (rapeseed)

Cananga

Caraway

Cardamom Seed

Carnation (Clove Pink)

Carrot seed & root

Cashew nut

Cascarilla Bark

Cassia

Cassie

Castor

Catnip

Cedar Leaf

Cedarwood

Cedarwood (Atlas)

Cedarwood Virginia

Celery Seed

Chamomile, German

Chamomile Roman

Chamomile Moroc (Sauvage)

Champaca Flower & Leaf

Cinnamon (Bark & Leaf)

Citronella

Clary Sage

Clove (Bud, Leaf & Stem)

Coffee

Copaiba

Coriander

Cornmint

Costus

Cubeb

Cumin

Cyperus (Cypriol)

Cypress

Dill

Elecampane

Elemi

Eucalyptus

Evening Primrose

Fennel

Fir Needle

Frankincense

Galangal